PC

What’s the Best WiFi Adapter for Windows and Mac?

Last updated on December 3, 2019

Using a wired connection is the best in terms of latency and stability. But, it’s definitely not the most convenient choice. Thankfully, we always have the option of choosing the best WiFi adapter for our computer.

However, the best choice differs from person to person. Some of us need portability while others need raw power – even if that means getting something that’s a bit bulkier.

That’s why we decided to list a variety of different options for everyone! Without any further ado, let’s get right into it!

1: Best WiFi Adapter for Portability: TP-Link N150

If you’re not a very demanding user and you feel like you can benefit from something like a nano adapter such as the TP-Link N150!

It’s so small that you can just plug it in on your laptop or desktop and forget that it’s even there. You can use it for Windows, Mac, or even Linux computers (Depending on your distro – we couldn’t get it to work on some versions of Ubuntu).

With an average price of about 10 bucks, this is one of the cheapest adapters that you can get as well. But, that’s not to say that cheap equals bad. The TP-Link N150 can actually reach up to 150 Mbps! And while this is not a crazy-high speed, it’s definitely more than your average person is going to need.

Now, of course, since you’re getting something so small, there are some sacrifices that need to be made. One thing that we personally noticed is that the ping is way too high for gaming. So, if you’re a gamer, you probably want to invest in something that’s just a tiny bit more premium.

Other than that, as we mentioned above, the download speeds are limited to 150 Mbps which means that you can forget about using it on a very good internet connection. Range is also not the best – but it should be plenty for the average person who connects to his house.

Pros:

Very small
Cheap

Cons:

Limited speed and range
Not suitable for gaming

2: Portability and Performance: Wsky WiFi adapter

Wsky may not be amongst the most popular brands. But, that’s not to say that their products aren’t worth checking out. This WiFi adapter, in particular, is a great option for those who want a middle ground between portability and performance.

As you can see in the image above, it’s available for all of the popular versions of Windows from Windows 10 all the way back to Windows XP! Other than that, you can also use it on Mac and Linux as well.

In terms of portability, it’s definitely not on the same level as TP-Link’s offering. You can’t just plug it in and forget about it. But, we can still put it on our Laptop’s carrying bag, carry on, and then plug it in after arriving.

In exchange for the slightly bigger size, you get 10 times higher transfer speeds and much more range as well. To be more specific, Wsky promises that their adapter can reach up to 1200 Mbps!

That’s frankly so much more than most of us can ever hope to achieve. So, we’d say that the specific adapter is a great choice for desktops as well. At about 20 bucks, it’s hard to go wrong with it!

Oh, and it goes without saying that you shouldn’t have any ping issues while gaming!

Pros:

All around a great option for both portability and performance (Unless you need something extreme)
Price is just about right
Decent range

Cons:

Dealing with a non-reputable brand always comes with a few risks (Warranty, after-sales support, etc) – regardless of the pricing

3: Best WiFi Adapter for Performance: Techkey 1750

If you need very high speeds and great range, then look no further. The Techkey 1750 is most likely all you need! Anything more than that and you’re better off looking at routers and repeaters instead.

Its range is simply insane. And as for speeds, you’re looking at 1300 Mbps on the 5GHz band and 450 Mbps on the 2.4 GHz band. The adapter itself mentions that it can go up to 1750 but that’s only the total bandwidth.

Generally speaking, you’re limited to 1300. Although, let’s be honest. Only a very small percentage of us can actually reach the 1000 Mbps mark. So, that limit isn’t exactly a limit in the first place.

Now, with all of that being said, great power comes with great wattage demands. Techkey recommends that we should only use the motherboard’s USB ports to connect this adapter.

We suppose that even though USB is a universal standard, there are many USB ports that don’t provide enough power for certain devices. So, this is probably why we are not supposed to connect a high-gain WiFi adapter to a Laptop or the USB ports that our case offers.

But even if you could connect it to a Laptop, that probably wouldn’t be the best idea. After all, this is not exactly a portable adapter.

Pros:

Great range
Supports both 2.4 and 5 GHz channels with speeds of up to 1300 Mbps

Cons:

Not suitable for Laptops (Zero portability along with high power demands)
Relatively expensive

4: Best Built-In Option for Desktops: TP-Link AC 1300

USB adapters are cheap and easy to install – but the truth is that some of us just don’t want to deal with external devices. Sometimes it’s better to have everything neat and tidy on the inside.

If that’s what you’re after as well, then consider buying the TP-Link AC 1300.

As you can see, this needs a spare PCI-E X1 slot in order to be used. If you don’t have any, then go back and look for a USB adapter instead.

In terms of performance, it shouldn’t be all that better compared to the external variants. Those of you who are operating on the 5GHz band should be able to reach 1300 Mbps (Only if your internet connection reaches that number, of course).

This card can’t be used on Laptops nor Macs or Linux machines. Only for Windows 10 computers. TP-Link has mentioned that it should work with other versions of Windows as well. But, while visiting their official website, you’ll notice that the only available drivers are for Windows 10 anyway.

Pros:

An internal card means that you just plug it in and then you can forget about it
Great performance

Cons:

Only available for Windows machines
Zero portability
Can’t be used on Laptops, Macs, and Linux computers

Why Use a WiFi Adapter on a Laptop?

As far as desktops are concerned, the answer is fairly simple. Most of them don’t come with built-in Wi-Fi. So, getting an inexpensive adapter is an easy fix, right?

But, what about Laptops? Every single one of them comes with WiFi and Bluetooth pre-installed. What’s the point in using an adapter then? Well, there are mainly a couple of reasons for doing so:

Fixing a broken WiFi card on the cheap
Getting better speeds and range

The first reason is pretty obvious. If your built-in WiFi card decides to stop working, then you’ll need to look for a replacement. And finding the exact one that’s needed can be a bit of a pain – not to mention installing it or getting a professional to do it. So, instead, you get a USB adapter – and life is good again.

Other than that, a WiFi adapter can also be used for achieving higher speeds than what our Laptop can achieve on its own. The average Laptop nowadays seems to be capped at 100 Mbps. Though, do keep in mind that your internet connection also needs to be fast enough in order for the adapter to reach those speeds.

Wrapping Up

That’s all we’ve got for now. If you’ve got any questions, feel free to let us know about them in the comments section down below. Still not sure which adapter to choose? Here is the TL: DR!

TP-Link N150: Very portable and cheap – but it’s not ideal for power users and/or gamers
Wsky WiFi Adapter: Average price, performance, and portability. All around a good option for your average person
Techkey 1750: Great choice for the most demanding users – but not suitable for Laptops
TP-Link AC 1300: Great performance and range but it’s only suitable for desktops while also requiring a free PCI-E X1 slot. It doesn’t work with Laptops or Macs of any kind, though

Is An Ultra Cheap Gaming Mouse Worth It?

Last updated on October 27, 2019

What you pay is what you get and if you’re on the lookout for a cheap gaming mouse, then chances are that you’ve come across a specific option that costs less than 10 bucks and has been gaining massive amounts of popularity.

We’ve seen it being branded as Zelotes, Fellee, and a ton of other names. But, in the end, it’s the exact same mouse with a different logo and name on it.

In any case. Could such a cheap gaming mouse be real? Is it actually worth it? Well, let’s find out!

Build Quality and Design

For less than 10 bucks, you obviously shouldn’t expect too much in terms of build quality and we didn’t either. The mouse is mostly made from cheap plastic while there’s also a ton of wobble on the buttons and scroll wheel. At least it feels kind off solid

As you can see in the image above, the design is overly aggressive while the mouse itself offers 3 additional buttons. The two buttons on the side are the standard extra buttons that we can use for going back and forth between pages or using them for extra hotkeys while the top button can only be used as a double left-click trigger.

There’s also a DPI button in the middle that cycles through 5 different DPI settings. It starts from 1000 and goes all the way up to 5500.

5500 DPI is frankly more than enough for most people. But, the fact that it can’t go below 1000 can be a deal-breaker for competitive gamers. After all, most of us prefer playing somewhere in the range of 400-800. Not that you can use this mouse to play competitively. But, more on that later on.

The braided cable is definitely a nice touch. But, the truth is that most decent budget options that don’t offer a braided cable in the first place still don’t get tangled up so easily.

Overall, the RGB is not customizable, the braided cable is just for show, and the extra button on the upper left corner is pretty much useless. The design of this mouse is like a meme – sounds good, doesn’t work.

By the way, do keep in mind that the mouse is rather large. Those of you who have small hands will struggle quite a lot with it.

Performance

One of the reasons that gaming mice are gaming mice is because they perform much better than their non-gaming variants. They generally offer lower latency and much better tracking – which honestly doesn’t seem to be the case with this mouse right here.

The overall response time isn’t too bad. Even if it’s set to 125 Hz, and it most likely is, it just feels alright.

The real problems start with the horrendous tracking. If you’re thinking of playing a super-low sensitivity game like CS: GO or anything like that, forget about it.

The Zelotes, Fellee, or anything that you may want to call it can’t handle fast flicks at a low sensitivity. Every time it’s going to freak out and stop tracking.

Again, this is a cheap mouse and we’re not expecting too much from it. But, the same thing goes for the G203 and Rival 110. And for a bit more than 10 extra dollars, they perform a hundred times better than this gaming-wannabe mouse.

Because at the end of the day, that’s what truly separates gaming mice from normal mice: performance. RGB and fancy aesthetics are a good addition. But, what will you do with them if the mouse itself doesn’t work properly?

Now, to be fair, it is good enough for casual gaming. Any game that doesn’t require ultra-low sensitivities will work just fine with it.

However, even then, the bottom feet don’t feel smooth at all and the mouse itself feels rather heavy to the point that it gets tiresome in long gaming sessions. Overall, that’s a fail in our book.

Software and Features

Were you truly expecting to see any extra features and included software for a mouse of this caliber? Psyche! There’s nothing like that here.

The Zelotes offers a full plug & play experience and that does have its own charm. But, the lack of control of, well, everything, feels pretty underwhelming, to say the least.

There is RGB, but you can’t control it. There is a DPI button, but you can’t make it so that it’ll only switch between your own preferred sensitivity settings. You’ll find a few extra buttons, but there’s no way to change what they do.

Overall, this cheap gaming mouse is actually a standard mouse with a “Gamer” aesthetic/design that offers a couple of extra buttons, cheap RGB, DPI functionality, and that’s about it.

Now, don’t get us wrong. For less than $10, this is not a bad bargain at all. The problem is that simply spending a tiny bit more will give you much better performance and full software control. So, take from that what you will.

Cheap Gaming Mouse Review: Conclusion

Overall, for less than 10 bucks, this is not such a bad choice. The tracking at high speeds is horrendous, but, other than that, we can’t complain.

However, as we mentioned above, just by spending a bit more than 10 extra dollars you can get something like the G203or the Rival 110. Mind you, both are actual gaming mice that can compete with high-end options. The Zelotes, on the other hand, claims to be a good option for “Pros”, but it’s actually not even a gaming mouse in the first place.

In the end, we’re really having a rough time recommending this mouse to, well, anyone. If you have:

Less than $10 to spend
Large hands
And don’t care about competitive gaming

Then maybe, maybe it’s worth it for you. For the rest of us, we feel like spending the extra money and getting an actual gaming mouse is a much smarter investment.

What do you think about all this? Let us know about your thoughts in the comments section down below!

What’s The Best Budget 144Hz Monitor?

Last updated on October 4, 2019

Getting the best budget 144Hz monitor is a must for budget gamers. After all, as far as gaming is concerned, there is no doubt that a higher refresh rate makes a world of difference in smoothness – at least as long as your GPU can keep pushing out these extra frames.

But, it goes without saying that when you look for cheaper alternatives, at least some functionality needs to be taken away. All you can do is balance the pros and cons out and pick whatever fits you best. That being said, here are our top picks!

1: ViewSonic XG2401: No Compromises

When we previously talked about our top overall budget monitors, this one got our approval as the best gaming monitor for the price. And it actually still holds that title.

Priced at just about 200 bucks, this is as good as it gets. 1080P, 144Hz, 1ms response time, great stand, FreeSync support, great build quality, and more. Overall, it’s hard to go wrong with it.

At 24-inches, it’s definitely not a large monitor, but it’s not small either. Arguably, this is the sweet spot for competitive gaming.

Since the size is all a matter of personal preference, though, you always have the option of selecting the 27-inch variant as well. Apart from the thinner bezels, slightly different stand, and the extra 30 bucks that it asks for, it seems to be more or less the same deal with our 24-inch recommendation – except it’s obviously bigger.

Do keep in mind that the larger your display is, the higher that the resolution will have to be in order for it to keep on looking nice and crisp. A 1080P display at 27 inches may appear to be somewhat blurry for some people.

With that out of the way, the included DP cable and FreeSync support are amazing at this price point. It’s not uncommon to see many other monitors asking for an extra $100 or more while offering the same specs and no FreeSync.

Our only small complaint are the somewhat thick bezels. Sure, it’s not a massive deal-breaker. But, we’re nearing at 2020 where most modern monitors offer very thin bezels. So, that’s a small shame for Viewsonic. Otherwise, it’s almost perfect.

Pros:

Great value
Offers FreeSync
Adjustable stand (Basic)
Cheap

Cons:

Big bezels

Check out the ViewSonic XG2401 on Amazon

2: Samsung C27JG56: QHD Goodness

As we mentioned above, some people may find 1080P displays a bit blurry. Especially the ones that start from 27 inches and only get bigger without offering a better resolution.

That’s why we thought that it’d be a good idea to mention the Samsung C27JG56 as well. It offers a QHD resolution while still maintaining our much desired 144Hz refresh rate.

The first version of this monitor didn’t come with FreeSync. But, thankfully, Samsung listened to our complaints and released this newer variant that comes with FreeSync enabled with a price tag of around $300.

Sure, it’s not exactly the cheapest monitor. But, as far as high-quality QHD 144Hz panels are concerned, this is as good as it can get without us reaching deep into our pocket. At this moment, this is the best budget 144hz monitor with a 2K display.

Our only complaint isn’t with the monitor, but with Samsung. Their quality control has proven to be mediocre at best. So, there have been quite a few people complaining about dead pixels or even DOA arrivals.

That leaves us playing with our luck and obviously, nobody likes that.

Pros:

QHD
Offers FreeSync
Great value
27-inch panel

Cons:

Samsung’s bad quality control

Check out the Samsung C27JG56 on Amazon

3: Sceptre E255B-1658A: 165Hz on The Cheap

We created this article while aiming to mention 144Hz monitors, but it just so much happens that this one can actually get up to 165Hz. That arguably doesn’t make much of a difference. But, hey, if you can take that advantage without paying more, why not?

Speaking of paying, this is actually the cheapest option so far. These days, it retails for under $180. But, do keep in mind that pricing may fluctuate wildly over time.

At times, many have seen it with a price tag of over $300 which is almost two times the amount that it asks for now. So, don’t blame us if you happen to read this article at a point in time when this will not be such a budget option.

As for features, we’re looking at a 24.5-inch panel, a 165Hz refresh rate, FreeSync support, 1ms response rate, thin bezels, and anti-flicker technology.

Our only complaints are the rather frail-looking stand and the mediocre build-quality control from Spectre. Just like with Samsung’s monitor, there have been quite a few complaints about dead pixels and damages on arrival.

So far, Viewsonic’s offering has been the most reliable out of the bunch. But, it also has thicker bezels and a slightly higher price tag than this one. So, it’s all a matter of weighing the pros and cons and choosing whatever fits you best.

Pros:

Cheapest option
165Hz refresh rate
FreeSync compatible
Thin bezels

Cons:

Spectre’s bad quality control

Check out the Spectre Sceptre E255B-1658A on Amazon

What Does 144Hz Mean?

144Hz stands to represent the refresh rate of a monitor. 60Hz means that it refreshes 60 times per second, 75 means that it refreshes 75 times per second, and 144Hz means that it refreshes 144 times per second.

60Hz is the “casual” refresh rate which is usually more than enough to satisfy non-gamers. But, those of you who own a beefy build that is able to push more than 100FPS can definitely take advantage of a high refresh rate monitor.

If your computer can’t render at least 90-100 frames per second, then buying a 144Hz display is probably not worth it since you’re not taking advantage of that extra refresh rate anyway.

If you bought a 144Hz monitor and just discovered that your PC can’t take advantage of it, then you can either start lowering the resolution of your game and it’s settings, or get a stronger GPU that can render more FPS.

The RX 580 and 1660Ti are good options for those who are targetting 100+ FPS on 1080P while the 5700 XT is more suitable for 1440P.

What’s The Best Budget 144Hz Monitor?

Overall, there is no single monitor that can beat them all. Each one of them have their own pros and cons. Long story short:

Viewsonic: Great option at a great price, but it also comes with thick bezels
Samsung: Higher resolution and thin bezels, but bad quality control
Sceptre: Highest refresh rate and the cheapest option, but the mediocre quality control is something to keep in mind

What’s your best budget 144Hz monitor? Let us know about it in the comments down below!

Subnautica Tips: How to Reach The Bottom

Last updated on September 24, 2019

Articles regarding Subnautica tips don’t seem to be that common. Many people may tell you that you don’t need them. After all, Subautica is generally not considered a very hard game. It most certainly isn’t Dark Souls.

That being said, there’s also no doubt that trying to reach the bottom of the sea will suddenly increase the level of difficulty and annoyance by a huge margin. Having finished the game a couple of times, I know all about that experience firsthand.

That’s why I decided to make a small guide about it. No spoilers are present (assuming that you’ve already played up to this point).

1: Craft Everything That’s Necessary Before Moving On

There are lots of people that feel the need to rush their game in order to progress through the main story. I’m guilty of this as well and it has been one of my many downfalls.

So, first of all, I’d advise you to craft everything that’s necessary before heading to the depths. If you don’t, prepare to face a lot of frustration and possibly lose a ton of progress as well.

Due to the no-spoiler policy, I can’t tell you what dangers you’ll face. But, what I can tell you is that the level of difficulty is on a whole different level.

Now, regarding the tools that need to be crafted, there’s no absolute list. It all comes down to personal preferences and playstyle.

For example, despite how useful the sonar is, some people prefer saving that energy and navigating on their own. Others would rather receive damage and fix their vehicles afterward in favor of saving energy instead of using the shield generator.

And if saving energy sounds dumb to you, then chances are that you haven’t gone below a certain depth level just yet. Because believe me when I say that the travel distance to the bottom is really long.

Some of the absolute necessary parts are definitely the depth modules and maybe the drilling arm for the prawn suit. Everything else comes down to personal preferences.

2: Don’t Forget About Food and Saving

One of the most important Subnautica tips that nobody ever gave me is to take care of food and water before heading down to the bottom levels.

It makes sense that you wouldn’t be able to find a lot of edible stuff and ways to make drinkable water one thousand meters below sea level. But, at the same time, you can find all that for the rest of the game in a 5-minute swim. So, most players don’t really think about that before heading to the bottom until it’s too late and 2 hours of process are absolutely wasted.

Obviously, there are tons of choices on how you’ll manage to do that. You can just grab a ton of fish and store them to the Cyclops, maybe plant some trees that grow fruits, anything that you feel most comfortable with, really.

After my first playthrough, I personally disabled hunger and thirst completely cause they are more tedious than anything else. If you truly care about that kind of survival, check out something like The Long Dark.

As for saving, you should keep on doing it frequently, but not when you know that you’re already screwed. For example, if your vehicle is already at 20% power and you’re not sure just how much road there is to cover, then saving at that point is probably a bad idea.

When things go bad, it’s better to just load a previous, safe checkpoint. Some people may call that cheating. But, hey, if you want to craft a new Cyclops and Prawn along with everything that was stored in them, be my guest.

3: Manage Your Energy Wisely

This is the only point in the game where you’ll truly have to worry about energy consumption. Not only because the travel distance is very long, but also because it’s very easy to get lost. And that’s without even mentioning other things to avoid spoilers.

So, when it comes to Subnautica tips for reaching the bottom, saving energy is quite possibly the best tip that I can give you. And saving comes in many forms.

First of all, let’s start with the somewhat obvious by stating that you should carry extra batteries on your storage. Also, do make sure to turn off the engine of your Cyclops while you’re not driving. I don’t think that it makes a huge difference. But, just to be safe.

Things get more complicated when modules are concerned. There are things like the Sonar and the Shield that are extremely useful in certain situations.

Problem is that they are also very hungry for energy. So, don’t use such things unless you absolutely have to; especially the shield which will deplete your power storage in no time.

Other than that, do also try avoiding the usage of the Cyclops’ fabricator while you’re traveling to the depths. It’s not much, but every little bit of power drain will make a difference in the long run.

4: Don’t Be Afraid To Use Google

I understand that this sounds a bit weird, but as far as gaming is concerned, many people shy away from Googling for information and how-to guides.

When it comes to Subnautica tips for reaching the bottom of the sea, let me tell you that you WILL need Google at some point. Maybe you just can’t find a specific location, crafting material, or anything.

Stubborn people who refuse to use Google with this game have a very high chance of getting stuck for hours. Usually, the one thing that’s holding you behind isn’t but a specific material. So, don’t be that guy.

That’s unless you’re willing to spend the next 5 hours or even days just looking for one item. So, yeah. Google is your friend.

Subnautica Tips for Reaching the Bottom: Wrapping Up

For those who can’t reach the bottom, those are all the Subnautica tips that I’ve got for now. I hopefully didn’t forget anything and, hopefully, I also didn’t spoil anything. If the names “Cyclops” and “Prawn Suit” mean nothing to you, then you’re probably reading this article way too early into your playthrough.

If there any questions or extra recommendations that you wish to make, then let me know about them in the comments section or on Reddit. Try to keep it spoiler-free for those who haven’t experienced the game yet.

In case there is a question that contains spoilers, either use Google or reach to me with a PM on Reddit.

My rig:

CPU: Ryzen 5 2600 GPU: GTX 1060 6GB RAM: Corsair Value 16 GB kit (2400 MHz) PSU: Corsair RM 650X Headset: HyperX Cloud 2 Keyboard: Corsair K70 LUX Mouse: Logitech G203

Recommended Specs:

Doesn’t really matter. The game runs like trash anyways.

iTunes Won’t Open? Here’s How to Fix it

Last updated on August 30, 2019

The “iTunes won’t open” issue has been getting more and more popular lately. Especially on Windows computers and often after big updates. Sounds familiar?

That’s not to say that the same issue is non-existent for Mac computers either. So, we’ll be mentioning how to fix it for both Operating Systems and on iPhones as well. That being said, let’s get right into it!

iTunes Won’t Open: Various Fixes

1: How to Fix “iTunes Won’t Open” on Windows Computers

Windows computers are the ones that most commonly face this issue. So, let’s start with that. There are various things that can go wrong and “brake” an application like iTunes. One of the most common ones is big updates that change the “structure” of the OS and sometimes, this messes up a few programs.

At this point, you can either try to repair or re-install iTunes to fix the above-mentioned issue. To repair it, go to:

Settings
Apps
iTunes
Modify
Repair

And while it says “repair”, this is more of an automatic re-installation process. Still, it should fix your issue and work just fine. If not, give it another try with the old, traditional method by going to:

Settings
Apps
iTunes
Uninstall

This uninstalls iTunes. To install them again, simply head over to the official website, download the app again, install it, log in, and pray that everything will work just fine.

If iTunes still refuses to cooperate, your best bet is to uninstall the update which messed up everything in the first place. This can be done by going to:

Settings
Update & Security
View update history
Uninstall updates
Then look for the most recent updates that were installed and remove them

After that, reboot your system and try running iTunes again. And if it still refuses to work, then your last two options are either running it in safe mode or taking it one step further and resetting your whole system.

How to Launch iTunes in Safe Mode and/or Reset Windows 10

Opening iTunes in safe mode is as easy as:

Holding down CTRL + Shift
Open iTunes while still holding down these buttons
And that’s it

If you’ve tried everything and iTunes still refuses to work, then your last line of defense is performing a factory reset. In order to do that, you must go to:

Settings
Update & recovery
Reset this PC
Get started

And here you can select to either keep your files or delete everything. Do keep in mind that no matter which way you go, all of your 3rd party apps will be deleted.

It would be for the best if you could actually perform a clean install. But, this requires Windows installation media, a valid Windows key, and secondary drives or the cloud for backups. It’s basically a whole new process. So, maybe just stick with a simple Windows reset for now.

That’s about all we got for Windows right now. And there a few other minor things that you may try like:

Restarting your system
Checking out the firewall and ensuring that it doesn’t block iTunes
Updating your drivers

And things like that. But, if you’ve tried everything that we mentioned above and it didn’t work out for you, then I highly doubt that such steps will be any more useful.

So, time to move on to Mac now.

2: How to Fix The “iTunes Won’t Open” Issue on Mac Computers

This problem is definitely a rarity for Mac users. But, if you were unfortunate enough to be one of the unlucky few, well, there’s not that much that we can really do.

The first thing that you always wanna try out in such cases is the updates. Always make sure that your system and apps are running their latest versions.

To check for updates on Mac, select the:

Apple icon
Software update

And if any updates are available, then click on the “Update now” button, wait for the installation to finish, reboot your computer, and then try opening iTunes again.

You could also try signing in with a different user account and then logging in back to your own. Alternatively, logging out and back in is worth a try if possible.

Other than that, you can also try some of the more standard fixes like rebooting your PC. But, reinstalling iTunes isn’t an option here. That’s mostly because it’s a core app for Macs and thus we’re not allowed to meddle with it like we can on Windows.

There are a few tricks to bypass that, but they sometimes lead into issues. Not to mention that the newest versions of Mac OS will not allow you to do anything anyway. You could try temporarily renaming the iTunes library folder, though. But, I doubt this will be of much help.

How to Repair Disk Permissions

One thing that may be helpful is repairing the disk permissions. To do that, you must first go into safe mode by:

Restart your Mac and upon boot, hold down the “Shift” key until you see the log-in screen
Log in
Open the Finder
Go to Application
Select “Utilities”
Disk utility
First aid
Then select “Repair Disc Permissions”

Depending on the version of Mac that you’re using, this option may not be available.

3: How to Fix “iTunes Won’t Open” on iPhone

An iPhone gives us even fewer options to work with. Still, let’s take our chances. The first thing you wanna try is restarting the phone. It poses zero risks and it’s something that may be able to fix your issue.

So, to restart an iPhone:

Hold down the power/sleep button
Slide to power off
Hold down the power/sleep button again until the phones powers on
Wait till it’s fully booted
Then give iTunes one more try

If that fails, make sure that you’re running the latest version of the app be heading over to the App Store. You could also try uninstalling and installing iTunes as you would do with any other app.

And if nothing seems to work, the only thing that remains is a factory reset. Of all the things that we’ve mentioned, this is the only one that will delete your data. So, make sure to keep backups on your PC or iCloud.

To factory reset an iPhone:

Go to Settings
General
Reset
Erase all content and settings

After that, simply follow the on-screen instructions. If memory serves right, you’ll need to double confirm your decision and insert your Apple ID for safety reasons.

This will turn your iPhone into a brand-new like state. But, it’ll also delete everything stored in the device.

That’s all for now. If you’ve got any questions or if you feel like there’s a good solution that we didn’t add, you can let us know about it in the comments section down below.

The Long Dark Interloper Guide

Last updated on August 9, 2019

The Long Dark interloper is quite possibly the toughest survival challenge you’ll ever face. I mean, there’s an achievement for surviving a single day on this difficulty. And those who survive are not the strongest or most intelligent, it’s those who adapt to change.

We’re not part of mother nature’s plan. We’re interlopers in this cursed, cold land, and we’re about to experience her wrath!

1: Priorities

First things first, if there is one huge difference between Interloper and the rest of the difficulties, then that would be the tools and weapons. In every other mode, you can look for hatches, knives, bows, rifles, and even pre-crafted bows with arrows.

This doesn’t happen in Interloper. Ever. You need to craft everything on your own. And for this reason, there are a few things that you must absolutely find and hold on to:

A heavy hammer
Coal
Scrap metal
Firestarters

Those are absolutely necessary for crafting all the tools and weapons that you’ll need for survival later on. So, your main priority upon starting is finding those ingredients and tools, holding on to them, and heading towards a forge.

Heavy hammers are most commonly found next to forges or crafting tables. Update: turns out that Interloper, unlike other difficulties, rarely ever drops hammers in forge areas. So, do keep that in mind.

Pieces of coal can mostly be found in caves or next to a fireplace, while scrap metal spawns all over the place. Obviously, scrap metal is much more scarce on Interloper.

You’ll also need a bit of wood to get a fire in the forge going. But, that’s the least of our worries here. Firestarters like matches are much more important to find as early as possible as they can help you with both food and water.

2: The Long Dark Interloper Guide: Starve To Death, But Don’t

For the first few days, every other game mode gives you enough food to survive easily for the next few weeks or so. Not Interloper, though. In-game loot is very rare and definitely not enough to keep you from starving. And that’s precisely what we’re going to do!

One very popular technique of dealing with the lack of food on Interloper is by not eating anything until you go to sleep. That’s because the lack of food doesn’t punish you nearly as much as not sleeping, not drinking water, or freezing.

You can spend the biggest part of the day without eating anything, losing a small percentage of condition, and then gaining it back at the end of the day with sleep.

Of course, there is the relatively new food buff mechanic which gives you extra capacity as a reward for continually avoiding starvation. But, my recommendation is to not think about it until you get your tools and weapons crafted.

When you first spawn on The Long Dark Interloper, a few pieces of cattail should be more than enough to get you through the night. Plenty of them can usually be found on lakes and rivers. So, do keep that in mind!

3: Navigation Is Key

As I’ve previously stressed on my “normal” guide for TLD, navigation is extremely important. It can make the difference between life and death and that’s especially true for Interloper playthroughs.

If you don’t know all the maps like the palm of your hand, then I’d suggest stopping here now, going back to something easier, learn the maps there, and then come back to Interloper.

The reason that navigation is so much more important here is because:

You don’t get to choose the map in which you’ll spawn
The weather is extremely deadly

That’s why most people never make it past day one. They commonly spawn somewhere in Timberwolf Mountain, Pleasant Valley, Hushed River Valley, or any other place with almost no shelters, and they freeze to death because they don’t know where to go.

How you navigate and where you go is completely up to you. But, do keep in mind that most people prefer using the landscape to tell where they are while Mystery Lake is generally considered to be the most favorable region. Quite possibly because it has lots of shelters while also being connected to numerous other regions at the same time.

4: Hunting

After you’ve crafted everything that’s necessary, hunting is the next big thing on the menu. And it works a bit differently on Interloper:

Don’t go after wolves and bears
If there are signs that bad weather is approaching, consider leaving the task for another time
Understand that your tools are extremely precious. Use them with care
Consider lighting up a fire next to you while harvesting a body

In other difficulties, going after predators isn’t a horrible idea. Bears provide enough food for numerous days while wolves can be taken down for safety. But, on Interloper, there’s the risk of intestinal parasites, and there’s also the fact that your tools are very precious.

You don’t want to waste arrows, bows, or knives and hatchets for no reason. After all, crafting can be tedious and even dangerous due to the distance that must be covered.

Then there’s also the weather. If you shoot your prey and a storm sneaks up on you, then you probably just lost a valuable arrow. So, be careful with that. A cloudy sky and small winds that get increasingly stronger are often an indication that things are about to get rough.

One other major difference between Interloper and other difficulties is that you can get mauled while harvesting a carcass. So, consider lighting up a fire next to you every time you want to harvest. This won’t save you from bears, but it will keep wolves at bay.

5: The Long Dark Interloper Tips: Adapt To The Situation At Hand

Now, when everything is said and done, do understand that TLD is a situational game. Even more so on Interloper which tries its hardest to kill you.

So, do keep everything that we’ve mentioned in mind. But, don’t follow everything by the letter. Judge every situation carefully and proceed to make the right decision for that particular situation.

For example, one very good point that one of my readers made on the last guide is that cold kills condition much faster than anything else. So, if you’re starving during the sunset with low condition and you don’t have food, then it makes sense to just abandon your prey since starvation won’t kill you as fast as cold, right? Wrong!

That’s precisely why I’m saying that TLD is a situational game. In the above case scenario, if you go to sleep starving with low condition, you’ll wake up to hunt in the coldest part of the day while being close to death.

So, the best idea would probably be to sleep for an hour or two until the storm goes away and then proceeding to hunt during the night. It’s not ideal. But, you gotta do whatever is necessary to survive.

The Long Dark Interloper Guide: Wrapping Up

That’s all I’ve got for now. Of course, if I were to mention every tiny detail that there is for Interloper mode, then we’d be here forever. So, I only mentioned everything above by taking into account the fact that you’re already familiar with the game.

If you’re relatively new and/or inexperienced, take it back a notch and play Voyager or Stalker until you’ve got a solid grasp of the maps and mechanics of the game. Also, consider reading my other guide which was made for your average player and not Interlopers.

As for those who are about to get started with the hardest difficulty of the game, here are some final The Long Dark Interloper tips for you:

Firestarters are a treasure here. Don’t use one unless you absolutely have to. It’s best to rely on the magnifying lens since it never breaks
When lighting a fire with a match, always prefer using a torch since you won’t have to waste a second match in case the fire doesn’t light up in the first try
After lighting up a fire, get as much meat and water as you can out of it to save up matches
Intestinal parasites are a massive pain in the butt. Try to stay away from predator meat
When it comes to avoiding cabin fever, a snow shelter is a much better solution than a bedroll. After all, as long as you tend to it regularly, you only need sticks to maintain it. Not to mention that it’s much warmer
Try not to use your tools unless you absolutely have to in order to keep them longer

My Gaming Rig:

How Much Does it Cost To Build A Gaming PC?

Last updated on June 10, 2019

We’ve all heard the argument: “Why buy a gaming PC when you can get a console without spending nearly as much?”. And the truth is that building a gaming PC is expensive. Or is it? The price will greatly vary depending on what you’re aiming for. So, how much does it cost to build a gaming PC really? Well, let’s find out!

How Much Does it Cost To Build A Gaming PC? Entry Level

My choice of specs:

Motherboard: GIGABYTE B450 AORUS M= $74
Case: Thermaltake V200= $70
CPU: Ryzen 3 2200G= $87
GPU: Integrated
RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury 2666MHz (X2)= $58
Storage: Kingston 120GB A400 (SSD) and WD Blue 1TB= $64
PSU: Corsair CX 650= $70
Total: $423

This setup should deliver at least 30FPS in 1080P low/medium settings for pretty much all games that are out there right now. If it can play something like AC Origins, then it can definitely handle everything else. And it goes without saying that it can handle e-Sport titles like CS: GO easily while delivering more than 100FPS (depending on settings and resolution).

More or less a console-like experience for a console-like price. For the money, this is an extremely good setup which gives you a lot of upgradability options. In fact, simply putting a good GPU in there could turn this into an awesome mid-range build. And if you’re up to the task, upgrading the CPU and RAM later will basically give you a high-end PC without having to buy everything again from scratch.

Now, you could probably save a hundred bucks or more by skimping a bit on the PSU, motherboard, case, or storage. However, I’d advise against it.

You see, if there is one thing that you don’t want to cheap out, then that’s the PSU – maybe also the case. A crappy PSU can destroy your whole computer and a cheap case leaves you with bad airflow and limited choices for upgradeability. So, yeah. And don’t get me started on faulty motherboards. They can be a pain in the butt.

Speaking about power supplies, this is definitely overkill for this build. But, it gives you more room for upgrading without having to get a new one.

How Much Does it Cost To Build A Gaming PC? Mid-Range Build

My choice of specs:

Motherboard: MSI X470 Gaming Plus= $137
Case: NZXT H500i= $90
CPU: Ryzen 5 2600= $145
GPU: GTX 1660 Ti= $280
RAM: HyperX Predator 8×2= $124
Storage: Kingston 120GB A400 (SSD) and WD Blue 1TB= $64
PSU: Corsair RM560x= $90
Total: $930

For a little bit less than a thousand dollars, this mid to high-end build allows you to run almost everything out there at 1080P, ultra, 60FPS. If you’re willing to drop down the settings you can move on to 1440P as well. You can even go up to 4K. But, you’ll have to accept lower framerates for that.

Compared to our cheaper build, we’ve now ditched the APU setup and we got ourselves a more powerful processor along with a dedicated graphics card. Since this setup uses more power, produces more heat, and gives the option of using much more powerful parts along with overclocking, we decided to go with a more reliable PSU. Hence the RM650x.

The case also gives you lots of cooling, room for drives, extra fans, and upgradeability options. RGB is included in numerous parts as well – if you’re into this sort of thing.

Last but not least, we also added more and faster RAM as AMD CPUs greatly benefit from this sort of thing. Overall, this is a very powerful build which will leave little to be desired.

How Much Does it Cost To Build A Gaming PC? High-End/Very Powerful Build

My choice of specs:

Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 Aorus= $230
Case: Corsair Crystal 570X= $160
CPU: Core i7-9700K= $400
GPU: RTX 2080Ti= $1,280
RAM: Ballistix Sport 16×2= $200
Storage: Samsung 970 Pro 1TB + WD Black 4TB= $497
PSU: Corsair RM 750i= $120
Total: $2,887

Flirting with a $3k price tag, this setup is the ultimate gaming machine. It can easily deliver 60FPS on 4K and well over 100FPS at 1080P max settings.

This time I decided to move over to Intel since it delivers better performance on the high-end spectrum. And though the 3rd generation of Ryzen 7 is right around the corner, we still haven’t seen any real-life usage from it (At the time of writing this article). A Core i9 is completely overkill for gaming so let’s leave that out of the way.

Apart from that, memory, storage, and the GPU are several steps ahead from our last build. In fact, only the GPU costs more than our mid-range build.

You can cut more than 400 bucks by taking it easy on the RAM and storage. But, if you’re going to make a high-end 4K build, you may as well go all out. At least that’s what I thought while making this setup.

The PSU and case aren’t a huge upgrade in any way. The only difference is that this power supply delivers 100 more watts and also offers power monitoring with software. Also fan control, if memory serves right. The case is just a bit fancier, but, other than that, more or less the same thing functionality wise.

Overall, this is one of the most powerful gaming computers that you can get – if not the most powerful. If you’re into enthusiast stuff, you can go even higher with a threadripper and dual or even quad GPU setups and a monster power supply. But, again, that’s more about having a hobby and bragging rather than owning a functional gaming machine.

Wrapping Up

So, how much does a gaming PC cost? As I showcased in great detail, the price can greatly vary depending on what you want and how much you’re willing to sacrifice for each build.

You can start from as low as 300-400 bucks (or lower if you’re looking into the used market) and go well over the $3K mark. It’s all about how much you are willing to spend and what you need.

For example, if you’ve got a 1080P/60Hz monitor sitting around your house, then getting a high-end build for it is silly. Chances are that you won’t notice the difference in performance between the two since you don’t get to see the extra FPS and you won’t be able to go into higher resolutions either. You get my point.

F.A.Q

Why is it that most of the builds are based on AMD and Nvidia? Are you a fanboy? – No. It’s just that AMD offers a better value on the CPU market and Nvidia dominates the mid to high-end GPU market. There’s no room for debate over that.
That case/motherboard is bad. Why not get X choice instead? – Nobody stops you from choosing something else. That’s the magic of PC building. If you don’t like a motherboard or case for any reason, you can go with another one. In most cases, no pun intended, cases and motherboards aren’t just “better” compared to each other. Just different.
Why not just go with the cheapest case? Doesn’t make a difference. – Airflow and room for upgradeability is a big deal. Both can royally screw you over down the line.
I’ve got a cheap PSU and it’s been working well for years. Why go with a premium choice? – Cheap power supplies have a much higher chance of ruining one of your components or even blowing up and destroying your whole build. Maybe the odds are 1 in a 100, 1,000, more, are you still gonna take the risk? You’re risking hundreds of dollars just to save 50 bucks or so.
Both Intel and the RTX 2080Ti are bad value. Why recommend them? – Because they offer the best performance that you can get right now. If you want the most powerful PC that you can build out of the enthusiast range, you don’t have any other options.
A 1TB SSD AND a 4TB HDD? Why? – Look at the previous answer. Same thing. Do you want the “almost reasonable” best? That’s probably it.

If you’ve noticed any mistakes, and I’m almost certain that there will be a couple, let me know about them. Reasonable recommendations are welcome as well.

Other interesting articles

Best Budget Gaming Mouse

Best Headphones for Gaming in 2019

Best PC Gamepad

Laptop Overheating? Here Are A Few Fixes

Last updated on May 31, 2019

Laptop overheating? Well, as we’re getting closer and closer to the hot days of summer, the problem is only bound to get worse and worse. The good thing is that there actually numerous possible solutions for this issue – all of them with their pros and cons. Without any further ado, let’s check them out!

Laptop Overheating? Try Using External Coolers

When it comes to laptop cooling, external coolers have been the most popular choice for quite some time now. There are mainly two types of coolers to choose from:

Cooling pads
Vacuum coolers

This is a vacuum cooler. It attaches directly to your laptop’s air vent and “pulls” the hot air directly out from the CPU. If your laptop is suffering from CPU overheating, then this may help quite a bit.

As for which one to choose? According to numerous Amazon positive reviews and our previous review on the best laptop coolers, Opolar’s vacuum is currently one of the best coolers that you can get; if not the best. It’s a tiny bit expensive, but, if that’s what you need to prevent your laptop from running too hot, getting slow, and potentially having a premature death, then it’s worth the investment.

Apart from a vacuum cooler, you can also add a cooling pad for maximum cooling. You can add the vacuum as an exhaust fan that takes the hot air out and the cooling pad as intake fans that push cool air in. They make a great pair.

The only issue with external cooling is that it can get a bit noisy, it occupies extra USB ports, and it also costs money. On the other hand, depending on your laptop, this method can allow you to avoid overheating without losing any performance.

To summarize, here are the pros and cons of this method.

Pros:

One of the best ways to cool down your laptop
Doesn’t sacrifice performance

Cons:

Can get noisy
Costs money

Restrict Your CPU

Restricting your processor’s usage will surely bring down the temperatures. But, it’s also going to slow down your machine. Whether you’ll feel that slowdown or not largely depends on your laptop and what kind of activities you’re performing on it.

For example: if you’re watching a movie, then chances are that you won’t notice a difference in playback smoothness regardless of how restricted your CPU is. After all, most modern laptops have more than enough processing power to play a 720P/1080P movie effortlessly.

However, if you’re doing something CPU intensive like playing games, editing videos, or anything like that, then chances are that you’ll feel the impact quite a lot. So, would we want to restrict our CPU usage?

Well, for once, maybe you added external cooling but that didn’t help too much. Or maybe you’re just too broke at the moment and you want something that’ll get the job done even if that means losing performance.

In any case, here is how to restrict your CPU usage in Windows 10:

Go to Cortana’s search bar and type: “Power plan”
Click on the option which says “Edit power plan”
Click on “Change advanced power settings”
Go to: “Processor power management -> Maximum processor state

Once you’re there, all you have to do is restrict your CPU usage to the maximum percentage which you think is acceptable. It may be 80%, 70%, half of your CPU power; maybe even lower.

You can use something like open hardware monitor to check your temperatures. Most CPUs will not allow you to over 90-celsius degrees without throttling which impacts your performance anyway.

Pros:

Will make your processor cooler
Doesn’t add extra noise

Cons:

Harms performance

Restrict Your GPU

Maybe your processor isn’t to blame. If you’ve got a gaming laptop, there is a good chance that your graphics card is the culprit here and you can add all the cooling in the world while restricting your CPU and you’ll still end up wondering “Why is my laptop overheating?”.

Apart from the fact that your laptop is probably hot to the touch, you can find out if your GPU is to blame by using hardware monitoring software like open hardware monitor or MSI Afterburner. Most GPUs will start throttling after reaching the 83C mark.

And the biggest issues with graphics cards is that they are often way too passive when it comes to cooling. The fans don’t really kick in until you’re already very close to throttling or actually throttling.

For this reason, apart from restricting your GPU, you can also simply turn up your fan’s RPM count as this will offer better cooling at the expense of power consumption and noise. Or you could always do both.

In any case, to control your GPU, follow the steps below:

Download and install MSI Afterburner
Open it
Restrict your power limit, increase your fan speed, or both

If you decide to restrict your GPU’s power limit, then you’re sure to suffer a performance hit. However, it shouldn’t be as major as restricting your CPU.

In my experience, by using a GTX 1060, I managed to go from 75 degrees down to 61 under full load while losing about 20% of performance. And while this is not considered overheating, I’m just trying to show you the power to performance ratio.

And in some cases, you won’t even notice that performance hit. For example, if you’re getting 100 FPS without a power limit and 80 FPS while limited, then this isn’t that noticeable. Unless you have a 144Hz display I guess.

Pros:

Can make a huge difference in cooling
Reducing the power limit makes your fan ultra quiet

Cons:

Depending on how powerful your machine is, you may suffer a performance hit
Increasing fan speed will make your laptop sound like a jet engine

Laptop Overheating Still? Here Are A Few Extra Tips

So, you tried your best, but that didn’t solve the issue. Is there anything else to do? Well, while I’ve got a couple of big tips and lots of minor ones that most of you hopefully know, pay attention here cause you may end up screwing something very bad to the point of bricking your machine. And if such a thing happens, neither I, the author, or WTLS will take any responsibility for it. So, again, be careful here. Treading on thin ice you are.

The first big tip: try replacing your CPU’s thermal paste.

Computers use thermal paste on their processors to effectively transfer the heat on to the heatsink. However, as time goes on, that thermal paste may start drying out a bit and lose its effectiveness.

You can fix that by replacing your thermal paste with a new one. It’s generally inexpensive and all you need apart from it is isopropyl alcohol to clean up which is also kinda cheap.

HOWEVER, this requires you to open your laptop, take off the heatsink, remove the old thermal paste, apply the new one, and reassemble the machine. The problem is that lots of things may go wrong in that process and I can’t guide you through it step by step as each laptop is different.

So, if you’re willing to follow that process, look at YouTube tutorials on how to open your laptop and replace the paste and proceed with caution. As for the second big tip? Open your laptop and use compressed air to clean the dust!

This isn’t as risky. But, it still requires you to open up your laptop. So, again, be careful. All you need to do is open it without damaging anything and use a can of compressed air to blow all the gathered dust from the fans and components out.

You should be able to find compressed air in one of your local electronics stores.

Extra Minor Tips

Most of you should know these. And if not, now is the time to learn:

Never use your laptop on the bed or soft surfaces. It destroys the airflow which is what can most easily cause overheating issues
Try to avoid multitasking when you don’t need it as it increases the power usage and thus, heat
Stay away from hot surfaces and places as it only makes the problem worse
Don’t leave your computer under the sun or your car during the summer heat – especially if it’s left on
If your battery is getting too hot, consider unplugging it to take power only from the wall. Most laptops can work solely through their charger/power supply. And don’t forget that heat is extremely bad for batteries as well

That’s all for now. Feel free to correct me if you feel like something is wrong or if I forgot to mention anything. And if you’ve got any questions, you can leave them in the comments section!

How Long Do Computers Last? + Tips

Last updated on May 24, 2019

So, you just got that brand new PC; or maybe your old one is getting a little bit old and you can’t help but ask yourself: “How long do computers last really and what can we do to improve their overall lifespan?”. We’ve got the answers to that and they may be a bit more complicated than you may think. But, no need to worry. We’ll make it as simple to understand as possible – even if you’re not a tech-savvy person.

With all of that being said, let’so move on with the article!

How Long Do Computers Last? The Short Answer

If you just want a quick answer without getting into technical details, well, you can expect your average PC to last about 3-5 years with laptops being closer to the 3-year mark. There are lots of factors that will determine the lifespan of your PC. But, even without touching anything, you can expect at least 3 years – assuming that nothing goes horribly wrong, like a local lightning strike or whatever.

With that being said, most of the time, computers don’t just completely die. Chances are that you’ll be able to have someone repair your PC and it’ll keep on working after the 5-year mark like nothing ever happened. Assuming, of course, that your hardware isn’t getting too old for new software. But, that’s an entirely different matter.

Laptops will generally die sooner and repairing them is both harder and more expensive. That’s due to the fact that most of them overheat way too easily and are not meant to be upgraded.

So, there you have it. If you don’t want any technical details, that’s your answer. 3-5 years is the average lifespan that you should get out of a PC. That lifespan can greatly vary depending on various factors including how well you’re taking care of the computer. If you care about such things, then keep on reading!

How Long Do Computers Last? The Long Answer

The real answer is a bit more complicated. You see, a computer isn’t a single unit – it is working with numerous individual parts which are operating together in order to make one full unit.

So, when your PC finally decides to give up on you, it’s not actually the whole PC that gives up on you, but only one part – HDDs are usually dying before anything else. If you replace that broken part, your computer will be back and working in no time. That is unless your power supply died and took everything with it. But, more on that later.

At the end of the day, depending on how much you know about computers (Or how much you’re willing to learn), how well you take care of your unit, and how lucky you are, a desktop build may as well last forever.

Laptops, on the other hand, are a different story. Not only they run much hotter, which shortens the lifespan of your components, but they often hard or impossible to fix and/or upgrade in case that something goes wrong.

For example, if your motherboard decides to give up on you on a laptop, then you may as well throw it out the window and get a new one. While on a desktop, all you need to do is get a new one and put your old components into it.

So, generally speaking, laptops don’t last as long as desktops. Chances are that you will be able to replace a faulty drive or RAM module. But, even then, it’s not going to be easy.

And with all of that being said, what can we do to improve the lifespan of our computers? Well, let’s find out!

1: Do NOT Cheap Out On Your PSU

Your power supply is one of the most important parts, if not the most important. Because if you’ve got a bad quality PSU and it decides to give up on you, then there is a small chance that it will also destroy the rest of your components.

So, by cheaping out on your PSU, you’re essentially putting at risk hundreds or even thousands of dollars just to save 30-50 bucks. I don’t know about you, but that sounds insane and unreasonable to me.

That being said, if you have a crappy power supply, do seriously consider upgrading. It may save the life of your whole build. And while we’re at it, don’t forget that power supplies wear out with time. It’s kind of good practice to replace your PSU every few years – just to be safe.

If you don’t know which power supply to get, you can find a list of reliable power supplies on the Linus tech tips forum. Based on that and numerous positive Amazon reviews, we can safely recommend the Corsair TXM 650. It’s one of the best mid-range PSUs and it should serve the vast majority of users out there without any issues.

In case that you have a very beefy PC, you may want to consider something with a higher wattage. But, most of us don’t need more than 300 to 500 watts – never mind 650.

Bonus tip: head to the local store and ask for a UPS. They can supply your PC with power in case of a power outage which can be a lifesaver for your drives or even your PSU and build.

Laptop users don’t really have to worry about that. After all, most laptops, if not all, come with their own proprietary power supplies and using 3rd party choices isn’t really recommended. Not to mention with their own battery.

Get the Corsair TXM 650 from Amazon

2: Stay Cool

Computers really don’t like heat. It’s not like a hot running PC will instantly die once it gets hot. But, heat is definitely something that will shorten your CPU, GPU, or even motherboard and PSU lifespan over the course of time.

One of the easiest ways to cool down your computer is by having a case with lots of intake and exhaust fans as that increases the overall airflow which brings down the temperatures. If your case doesn’t have room for fans, get something like the Thermaltake V200. It comes with 4 pre-installed fans and has room for 2 more on the top. Not to mention that it’s relatively cheap. So, when it comes to cooling? Hard to go wrong with it.

That being said, don’t forget about your CPU cooler as well. That can make a huge difference in cooling and stock coolers will usually leave a lot to be desired – especially if you’re into overclocking. Now, there are various choices out there for each individual CPU. So, you’ll have to make your own research on that one.

However, that’s not to say that there aren’t universal solutions. The Deepcool Gammaxx is a CPU cooler that works with most mainstream sockets and provides adequate cooling. So, do check it out.

While we’re at it, you can also try replacing your CPU’s thermal paste every few years. Sometimes it kinda dries out which brings the temperatures up.

We haven’t forgotten about you, laptop users. An easy way to ensure that your laptop isn’t overheating more often than you’d like to is to place it on solid surfaces for increased airflow and/or using a cooling pad.

If that’s not enough for you, then you can go all out and get an external cooler which sucks, quite literally, air directly out of your CPU pipe. This is definitely a bit more inconvenient and often noisy but it can make a huge difference in temperatures. Or at least it did for us.

3: Keep it Clean

Accumulated dust can completely ruin your airflow and it makes it easier for your components to overheat. So, it’s highly recommended to use a case with good dust filtering and to clean your PC every now and then.

Using compressed air cans is a very cheap and easy way to get rid of accumulated dust. You should be able to find plenty of options at your local store. Amazon doesn’t seem to give any valid options. So, heading out seems to be your only choice for this one.

There is no set frequency to cleaning your PC. But, why don’t you take a look every month or so? Taking off the side panel is a breeze with most cases. So, it’s not like you have much to lose.

This is much tougher on laptops since you can’t really put a different case to it and getting access to the innards of a laptop is several times tougher and riskier than simply taking the side panel off a desktop. So, before opening up your laptop, check out a YouTube tutorial for your specific model just to make sure that you’re not going to rip-off a cable or something.

Pro tip for laptops: if you’ve got an HDD in your laptop, do NOT move it while it’s powered on. Like, not even from couch to couch or shaking it.

Put it to sleep or turn it off, and then go on your way. The reason being that HDDs have mechanical parts that are moving at very high speeds and there is a small chance that you’ll damage them if you move while they are powered on.

How Long Do Computers Last? Conclusion

So, to summarize, desktops can last about 3-5 years with little to no maintenance while most laptops are flirting with the 3-year mark before having to ask for repairs.

If you take good care of your computer, then there is a good chance that it’ll last forever with minor upgrades and repairs that need to be made every few years. Laptops are a little bit more prone to dying. But, again, do take good care of your machine and it’ll last you so long that you’ll have to upgrade to a faster model before it comes close to dying.

Don’t get me wrong here. I’m well aware that some computers have managed to live for more than a decade. In fact, I’ve got a Pentium 4 desktop which is probably half my age and it still works. Still, we’re only talking about the average user here along with the odds of something going wrong. And the truth is that most HDDs and PSUs won’t live for more than 5 years before starting to show signs of wear and/or completely giving up on you.

If you liked this article then don’t forget to share it with your friends. Feel free to come back for more tech tips as we’re usually posting one new article every day.

In case we forgot something important, then don’t forget to let us and everyone else know about it in the comments section. Speaking of comments, feel free to ask any questions if you need anything and we’ll be happy to help.

What’s The Best PC Gamepad? (2019)

Last updated on May 10, 2019

The mouse and keyboard are the main weapons of every PC gamer. However, that’s not to say that there aren’t times where a PC gamepad may be needed.

For example, racing gamers like Dirt Rally are generally much easier to play with a gamepad. The same goes for most RPG titles like The Witcher, Dark Souls, etc.

That being said, if you’re planning on getting a PC gamepad, you best make sure that it’s going to be endurable, compatible with your games, and with good build quality. No need to go on a searching spree – we already did that for you. So, let’s check out the best options that we came across.

Best PC Gamepad With Cross-Platform Compatibility: Gamesir G3s

I (the author) have personally been using this gamepad for about a year now and it’s definitely one of the best gamepads that I’ve ever tried. At least when it comes to PC.

Because, to be honest, while it’s one of the very few gamepads to offer cross-platform compatibility out there, it still kinda sucks at that. Getting it to work on a PS3 was a pain and it has quite a lot of input delay when using it wirelessly with a phone. No problems with wired connectivity, though.

Still, it offers a vastly better experience on PC and that’s what we care about here. First of all, after more than a year of heavy use, it still works like brand new with no signs of usage. Sure, the left stick is a tiny bit more sensitive. But, that’s about it.

Other than that, the GameSir G3s also offers XInput which is the same with Xbox controllers. This is very important because it gives you global compatibility with all games that support PC gamepads without you having to tweak and adjust anything. And you get all that with about 30 bucks. Pretty good deal, if you ask me.

You can use it both wired and wirelessly, as it comes with a removable cable and a wireless adapter. But, do keep in mind that there is a tiny bit of input delay when using it wirelessly. Nothing deal breaking if you’re playing an RPG like The Witcher or something. But, that tiny delay can make the difference between winning or losing in competitive games like Tekken or Dirt Rally. So, do keep that in mind.

Check out the GameSir G3s on Amazon

Best Budget PC Gamepad: Xbox 360 Controller

Flashy LED lights and cross-platoform compatibility are great and everything. But, when it comes to raw performance and endurance, the Xbox 360 controller from Microsoft is definitely one to look out for.

As you’d expect, it works out of the box with every game that supports gamepads out there while offering the build quality of Microsoft. Overall, it simply gets the job done for less than 30 bucks.

The only downside that it has is that you can’t use it wirelessly. And while there is a wireless version, it probably doesn’t make too much sense to get it when you can simply go with the newer Xbox One controller that works both wired and wirelessly on demand.

One advantage that this old fella has compared to any other PC gamepad out there is the guarantee that it’s not going to give up on you anytime soon. Some people have even mentioned that it’s more endurable than the Xbox One controller.

The 360 gamepad may be older, out of style, and cheaper than the competition. But, again, it’s one that will surely work for a long time without having you to worry about things like input lag, endurance, compatibility, or anything like that. If you haven’t used one before, now is your chance to check it out!

Check out the Xbox 360 controller on Amazon

Best High-End PC Gamepad: Xbox One Controller

You saw that coming from a mile ago, didn’t you? If not, you should have (JK). The Xbox One controller is basically the improved version of its predecessor.

Just like the Gamesir G3s, it allows you to go wired or wireless with its removable cable while it offers excellent build quality, game compatibility, and a solid feel. Definitely a great contender when it comes to premium gamepads. And if you feel like spending even more, you can also get the Elite version.

Other than that, there’s really not a lot to say about it. Other than the fact that you can connect headphones and that the buttons feel a little bit better, especially the Dpad, this is another gamepad that simply gets the job done.

You can usually find it new for about 50 bucks brand new and $35 second hand – depending on how heavily it has been used, how long, and if it has any signs of wear.

Check out the Xbox One controller on Amazon

Best Gamepad For Compatibility And Customizability: Steam Controller

There seems to be a lot of hate around this controller. Most likely because it’s not something that your average gamer will really need. However, there’s no denying that it’s the best at what it does.

You see, as we mentioned above, our recommendations are widely compatible with games that feature gamepad support. The Steam controller, however, is even compatible with games that do NOT feature gamepad support. And that’s one of the amazing things that this gamepad does.

By using it through the Steam platform, you can customize this controller to work with pretty much any PC game out there. Not to mention that the touchpad helps tremendously with playing FPS games.

However, do not forget that in some cases, you’re far better off with a traditional gamepad. For example, a “normal” gamepad will likely fare much better in things like fighting and racing games. Maybe even RPG.

But, when it comes to playing full-fledged PC games from your couch that normally require a mouse and keyboard, no other gamepad does it as well as the Steam controller. So, check it out!

Check out the Steam controller on Amazon

Best Budget Option: Logitech Gamepad F310

So, all of the gamepads that we checked out till now are obviously great. But, pretty much all of them cost at least 30 bucks with the exception of the 360 controller which is kinda old and we couldn’t find it new anyway.

That being said, we decided to include a budget option in this list. And the best gamepad that we could find for a small price (without completely butchering compatibility and build quality) is the Logitech F310!

At the moment, you can get it for about 15 bucks which is frankly ridiculous. It couldn’t get any cheaper than that. Obviously, for that price, you can’t expect any fancy features or insane longevity.

What you get, however, is a gamepad that gets the job done without asking for a lot of money. Again, it does feel a lot cheaper compared to the rest of our options and it sacrifices a little bit of performance due to the Dpad and trigger design. But, still, it gets the job done. And at the end of the day, I guess that you get what you pay for.

If you feel like there is another gamepad that is worthy of being on this list, then make sure to let us and everyone else know about it in the comments section down below!